Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Hommage a Marguerite 2022

Few wines in the PYCM range carry as personal a story as this one. Hommage à Marguerite blends three tiny Saint-Aubin Premier Cru parcels — Combe (0.33 hectares), Perrières (0.44 hectares), and Les Créots (0.52 hectares) — first made together as a single cuvée in 2016, a devastating frost year for much of Burgundy. As Pierre-Yves has explained, the name honours his maternal grandmother Marguerite, who passed away around the same time as that frost — a wine born, in a sense, from loss, and named in her memory ever since. Pierre-Yves, eldest son of the celebrated Marc Colin, spent over a decade as winemaker at his father's domaine before founding his own estate with wife Caroline Morey in the mid-2000s; today PYCM is widely regarded as one of the finest producers in the entire Côte de Beaune. As with the rest of the range, the wine is fermented and aged in larger 350-litre demi-muids rather than smaller barriques, without batonnage, bottled unfined and unfiltered, and sealed with wax over untreated cork.

The result is consistently one of the most compelling Saint-Aubin bottlings being made: pear, buttered toast, and sweet citrus meet salted lemon peel, golden apple, flint, and crushed stone, with critics repeatedly noting real fleshiness alongside a bright, saline finish.