Pierre Gonon St. Joseph 2023

The Gonon family's roots at Mauves go back to the 1950s, when Pierre Gonon senior planted vines in the steep terraces above the Rhône. His sons Jean and Pierre joined him in the 1980s, and after their father retired in 1989 the brothers built the domaine into Saint-Joseph's finest producer. They farm about 10 organic (Ecocert) hectares on decomposed granite and gneiss, between 180 and 280 metres, with every red vine from old massal selections rather than clones. Winemaking is traditional and minimalist: hand-picked fruit, a large share of whole bunches (as much as 90% in some years), indigenous yeasts, and at least twelve months in older 600-litre demi-muids. The wine is 100% Syrah.

The result is classic Northern Rhône Syrah with real finesse. Ripe black cherry, blackberry, violet and lavender sit over black pepper, tapenade, liquorice and a savoury, gamey edge, with a distinctive mineral grip from the granite and the iron-rich soils near Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. The palate is medium to full-bodied and silky, with fine tannins and an impressive length. Jean Gonon recommends about six years' patience, and these wines can be sulky when young, tightening up before they open into something remarkable.