Kusuda Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2022

Hiroyuki "Hiro" Kusuda is a Tokyo-born former lawyer who tasted a 1992 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir, left law behind, trained in Germany at Geisenheim and moved to Martinborough in 2001 to chase the same magic. His roughly four hectares are worked with fanatical meticulousness, and his Riesling reflects the German years. The Trockenbeerenauslese is made from individually selected, botrytised Riesling berries picked at extreme ripeness, hand-sorted before a slow fermentation that preserves both sweetness and acidity. It is made only in years when the botrytis cooperates, in minuscule quantities, in 375ml bottles. Wine-Searcher lists it as the most expensive wine made from Riesling in New Zealand.

The result is a very rare, concentrated sweet wine. The 2022 carries more than 308 grams per litre of residual sugar, yet stays focused thanks to a long, vibrant line of acidity, with a viscous, textural mouthfeel. Honey, candied citrus and dried apricot lead, with a purity and layered finish typical of the world's great botrytised Rieslings. James Suckling scored the 2022 a remarkable 98 points and called it "masterfully constructed and truly incredible"