Jim Barry Shiraz The McRae Wood 2018

In 1964, Jim Barry bought 70 acres of land from Duncan McRae Wood and planted his first Clare Valley vineyard, to Shiraz. It was an inspired choice, and the wine named for it is now one of the benchmark reds of the region, made today by Tom Barry and Ben Marx, with Peter and Sue Barry’s family still in charge. The vineyard is grey sandy topsoil over a clay subsoil, with vines trained on a single cordon to give the fruit even shade. Clare’s big temperature swings between day and night keep the acidity in the grapes, so the style is muscular and generous, but fresh. The wine is aged in French oak, about 20% new, and bottled under screwcap.

The result is classic Clare Shiraz, with concentration and savoury drive. Blood plum, cherry and dark berries come with black olive, spice and a little oak, and with age, tar, aniseed, maraschino cherry and savoury, gamey notes like beef jerky and boot polish. The palate is restrained in youth, with depth, soft, integrated tannins and a lengthy finish.