Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 2020

Valmur is Séguier's powerhouse, and Fèvre's fruit comes from the summit of the slope. He points to a distinct line of Marne soil here, as in Butteaux and Vaulorent. It makes a more taut, muscular wine than its neighbours.

The result opens with peach, lemon oil, fresh bread, oyster shell and struck match. It is full-bodied, concentrated and incisive, with a racy, electric profile and a searingly saline finish. Decanter adds a touch of orange zest, kept in check by vibrant acidity. It is tighter and more restrained than Bougros at this stage. Wine Advocate scored it 95 and advises at least a decade of patience, and Decanter gave it 94. Pour it with shellfish, sea urchin or a rich fish dish.