Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2020

Les Clos is the largest and greatest of the seven Grand Crus, and Fèvre's 4.1 hectares sit mostly at the top of the slope, on chalk-dominant soils. About half the vines were planted by William Fèvre's father in the 1940s, and a good portion of the wine is fermented in barrel. In an excellent range of 2020s, many critics still put it at the top.

The result is confit citrus, fresh bread, oyster shell and orange zest, with quinine and acacia blossom behind. It is full-bodied, satiny and muscular, the broadest and most powerful wine in the range, yet quintessentially Chablis, with a concentrated, tensile line and a long saline finish. Decanter, Gilman and Ken Gargett all gave it 97, Wine Advocate 96 and Wine Spectator 93. Gilman's drinking window runs to 2080. Pour it with lobster, roast veal or a washed-rind cheese once it has had time.