Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros 2020

William Fèvre rebuilt the family domaine from 1959 and is now Chablis's largest Grand Cru landowner. It is now in the hands of the Barons de Rothschild Lafite group, with Didier Séguier still running the vineyards and cellar. Bougros sits on the steepest slope in the appellation, with a gradient above 30%, and Fèvre owns 6.23 hectares, nearly half the cru. The vines are on shallow clay and gravel, which holds yields down. 2020 was a hot, dry year after a very wet winter, and also the first year of official organic conversion. Alcohols stayed a sensible 11.8–12.9%.

The result is the richest, most fruit-driven of the Fèvre Grand Crus. Peach, citrus blossom, bee pollen and oyster shell lead into a satiny, layered palate with racy acidity and a long saline finish. It is also the most forward wine in the line-up and the one to open first. Wine Advocate and John Gilman both scored it 94 points. Pour it with oysters, lobster or sea bass, or hold it to 2050.