Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots 2020

Côte Bouguerots is a small section of Bougros at the foot of the slope. It covers about 2.2 hectares, faces due south and falls away at up to 45 degrees, close to the Serein. It is so steep it must be worked entirely by hand. Until Didier Séguier arrived in 1998 this fruit was simply blended into the main Bougros, and it is now bottled separately and widely considered the finest wine in the Fèvre cellar.

The result is Fèvre's most complete wine. Cool citrus, apple, mineral reduction and ocean-breeze notes sit over a ripe, textural palate with a chiselled stony core. Wine Advocate says it brings together the muscle of Valmur, the mineral profile of Les Preuses and the perfume of Vaudésir. Gilman and La Revue du Vin de France both gave it 97, with Wine Advocate and Decanter at 96. It needs about a decade. Serve it with grilled lobster, turbot or a creamy poultry dish.