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Côte du Py is the most famed slope in Morgon, a steep hill of granite, schist and even a touch of volcanic rock, and Foillard’s family vines sit at its peak, many of them centenarian. He farms organically and picks by hand, ferments whole bunches with native yeasts for three to four weeks, and ages the wine for six to nine months in used Burgundy barrels. It is unfiltered, with no chaptalisation and no added sulphur during vinification. Despite his place in the natural wine movement, Foillard has no tolerance for sloppy winemaking, and his bottles are models of aromatic purity and graceful ageing. The result is Gamay with the depth and mineral expression of fine Burgundy. Each of the six vintages tells a different story: