Camille Giroud Vosne-Romanee Les Chalandins 2019

Maison Camille Giroud is a small négociant house in Beaune, founded in 1865 and known for vins de garde, red Burgundies built for long cellaring, sourced from growers who farm with an eye to longevity rather than early-drinking appeal. Les Chalandins is a village-level Vosne-Romanée from a vineyard that sits close to the south wall of Clos de Vougeot, near the main road on the Flagey side, so it shares some of its neighbour’s solidity. The soils here are deeper than elsewhere in Vosne, which gives a broader texture, so the wine is made with about 40 to 50% whole cluster, for lift and a creamy mid-palate, and aged with only about 20% new oak. It is a clean, pure Pinot that is more Vosne than Vougeot, and it benefits from some patience.

The result is richer and more structured than many village Vosnes, with spice and real depth. Brambly red fruit, tart red cherry and wild strawberry lead, with rose petal, plum, crushed rock and exotic tea, and the palate is sappy and layered, with supple tannins, fresh acidity and a long, harmonious finish.