Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Kopin 2019

Kopin is Ganevat mischief at its finest — a wine that could only exist under the loose rules of Vin de France, blending Chardonnay from Burgundy, Savagnin from the home turf in the Jura, and Riesling all the way from Alsace into a single, genuinely improbable cuvée. It's the kind of blend "very few vignerons could get away with," as one importer puts it, but in Jean-François and Anne's hands it works precisely because each component is handled with the same rigour as their single-vineyard wines: barrel-fermented on native yeasts, aged for a year or two in old demi-muids, and blended across vintages rather than tied to a single year, so the exact makeup shifts release to release. It's a wine born of the domaine's négoce side — proof that Ganevat's magic touch isn't limited to Jura fruit or to his own vines.

The result is bright, layered, and endlessly drinkable: pear and stone fruit up front, giving way to green apple, Meyer lemon, and toasted almond, with a slight flinty reduction and a distinct saline, mineral edge running underneath. The palate is textured and precise, carrying real freshness despite its patient élevage, and it finishes clean and mouthwatering rather than heavy. Serve it slightly cool with shellfish, scallops, or a rich butter sauce, or simply pour it as a thought-provoking aperitif for anyone who thinks they've already tasted every possible expression of Chardonnay — Kopin is Ganevat proving there's always another angle worth exploring.