Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Cotes du Jura Chardonnay Savagnin 2016

The one bottling where Jean-François Ganevat and his sister Anne let the Jura’s two great white grapes speak together, a 50/50 marriage of Chardonnay and Savagnin drawn from old vines on clay-and-marl slopes, farmed with the same biodynamic devotion (right down to the seasonal herbal tisanes) that runs through everything the family touches. The wine spends two patient years in barrel, topped up regularly to keep oxidation at bay, before being bottled unfiltered and largely free of added sulphur. It’s a small-production cuvée that captures both grapes at their best: the Chardonnay lending freshness and cut, the Savagnin bringing its telltale nutty, sous-voile complexity, without ever tipping into the fully oxidative style the region is famous for.

The result is a wine of real contrasts held in perfect tension: laser-sharp acidity wrapped around a fleshy, almost creamy texture, with a chalky, stony midpalate and a long finish that turns gently honeyed on the way out. Notes of chamomile, green apple, lime zest and wildflower honey unfurl in the glass, making it as aromatically complex as it is textural.