Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumees 2020

Caroline Morey is the eldest daughter of the celebrated Jean-Marc Morey, and when her father retired in 2014, he divided the family's vineyards between Caroline and her brother — a modest 2.4 hectares to start, which she's since grown to seven prime hectares across Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay, and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. She makes her wines alongside her husband, Pierre-Yves Colin of PYCM fame, sharing his exacting, minimal-intervention philosophy: fermentation and ageing in 350-litre barrels, indigenous yeasts only, no batonnage, and bottling unfined and unfiltered. Les Chaumées sits right at the top of Chassagne, on high, stony, limestone-rich slopes at the northern, Puligny-facing end of the village, running alongside the old quarry near Philippe Colin's own vines. Caroline's parcel here is genuinely old — planted in the 1950s, now over 70 years old — and notable for tiny, millerandage-affected berries that pack real concentration despite the modest yield. Where the site's sibling climat Cailleret leans toward linear precision, Chaumées tends to wear its aromatics more openly, with a distinctly floral, perfumed character.

The result shows exactly that lifted, aromatic charm: smoky, floral-suffused notes of anise and white orchard fruit lead the nose, building beautifully in the glass to reveal a gorgeous, cashmere-like texture. The palate is succulent and round yet genuinely tension-filled, with palate-staining fruit intensity, real dry extract, and a great line of limestone-driven acidity carrying through a long, youthfully austere finish.