Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Savagnin Cotes du Jura Montferrand 2019

Montferrand is the same storied lieu-dit that produces Ganevat's celebrated Chardonnay bottling, but here it's Savagnin that gets to speak — old vines planted on the grey Lias marl and shimmering, iridescent marl near Château-Chalon and Voiteur, terroir Jean-François and Anne consider among the finest in the Jura. Unlike the region's famous Vin Jaune, this Savagnin is vinified ouillé — topped up regularly to keep air at bay — for more than two years in old barrels, following the same unwaveringly simple rulebook as everything else in the range: no additions, indigenous yeasts only, no fining, no filtration, and no added sulphur. It's a style built to show Savagnin's full complexity without tipping into the fully oxidative character the grape is known for.

The result is a Savagnin of real gravity: a bouquet dominated by walnut, almond, and hazelnut, layered with peach, poached pear, and apricot, and a distinct pastry-like richness that builds with air. On the palate a powerful, gunflint minerality runs through a long, tightly structured frame — generous and full without ever losing its grip, finishing on a savoury, saline note that lingers.