Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Cotes du Jura Les Cedres 2020

If there's a wine that sums up why serious collectors chase down anything with the Ganevat name, it's Les Cèdres. The fruit comes from a stand of Chardonnay vines planted in the 1930s on the legendary marno-calcaire slopes of Château-Chalon — the same limestone-marl terroir that gives the region's famous Vin Jaune its power — farmed organically and biodynamically by Jean-François and his sister Anne. The wine is fermented spontaneously on indigenous yeasts and left on its lees in demi-muid for two to three years, ouillé throughout to preserve freshness rather than courting oxidation, then bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without a trace of added sulphur. It's routinely singled out by the domaine itself as one of its "grands blancs" — a cuvée built to stand alongside the finest white Burgundies rather than merely alongside other Jura whites.

The result is a Chardonnay of real brilliance and drama: an exotic, layered nose of candied lemon, marshmallow, passionfruit, and warm spice, giving way to a palate that's simultaneously powerful and precise, streaked with beeswax, toasted nuts, and grapefruit zest, all carried by a mineral, saline backbone that keeps the wine taut from first sip to lingering finish. It's a wine with genuine ageing potential — many vintages drink beautifully for the better part of a decade — yet it's thrilling young too, especially given air.