Pierre Gonon Ardeche Les Iles Feray 2022

Pierre Gonon is one of the reference names in Saint-Joseph, working from Mauves in the Ardèche with his brother Jean on about 10 hectares of steep, terraced slopes overlooking the Rhône. The vineyards sit between 180 and 280 metres on decomposed granite and gneiss, and the family has farmed organically (Ecocert certified) for years, with all the red Saint-Joseph vines coming from old massal selections rather than clones. Les Îles Féray is the Gonons' Syrah from their youngest vines and lower-lying parcels, essentially the declassified fruit from Saint-Joseph, so it carries the same pedigree under a more modest IGP label. It sees less whole-bunch maceration than the classic Saint-Joseph, which makes it a more open, immediately drinkable wine.

The result is Syrah of unusual freshness and charm. Violet, peony, blackberry and wild cherry lead the nose, with a smoky, bacon-fat edge and a whiff of black olive and spice. The palate is juicy and vibrant, with fine tannins and lovely acidity, and a long, floral finish. Josh Raynolds, Matt Walls and Wine Advocate have scored recent vintages 91–93, and Matt Walls noted it was "so drinkable and fresh". Decanter describes slightly more rustic tannins than the Saint-Joseph, so it suits drinking young, though it will hold for several years.