Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 2022

Sylvie Esmonin's estate was long known as Domaine Michel Esmonin et Fille, and the name change tells its own quiet story of succession. After studying in Dijon and working for years as a consulting oenologist, Sylvie deliberately took her time before deciding to return home and vinify her first vintage, 1990, alongside her father — from that point the whole production became estate-bottled, and she gradually assumed full responsibility (with the notable exception of ploughing, which remained Michel's favourite vineyard chore). Even today, more than three decades on, she remains one of very few winemakers running a Gevrey-Chambertin domaine as a woman. The estate's 7.8 hectares include 1.7 hectares within Clos Saint-Jacques — a climat so celebrated that Jancis Robinson has called it "always regarded as a Grand Cru in all but name," despite technically ranking only as Premier Cru. It's a tiny site, just 6.7 hectares shared among five owners including Armand Rousseau, Bruno Clair, Louis Jadot, and Domaine Fourrier, and Sylvie is its second-largest holder, with old vines — none younger than 45 years, most planted by her grandfather — running from the very top of the slope to the bottom. Farming has been chemical-free since 1990, and the wine typically sees a substantial proportion of whole clusters and a meaningful share of new oak.

The result routinely rivals genuine Grand Cru in concentration and depth: a boldly spicy, meaty nose gives way to a palate of terrific richness and density, ripe black cherry fruit held beautifully in check by bright acidity, with dark chocolate and cumin notes weaving through layers of earthy minerality.