Jean-Francois Ganevat Cotes du Jura Les Varrons Vieilles Vignes 2018

Les Varrons Vieilles Vignes is one of the most structured and age-worthy whites in the Ganevat portfolio — a Chardonnay of rare depth and complexity from a parcel that rewards patience above all else. One hundred percent Chardonnay from old vines planted at 250 metres altitude on an east-facing slope in the small town of Rotalier, the terroir clay over limestone, grown biodynamically — hand harvested, given a short maceration, vinified naturally and matured four years in demi-muid barrels and casks that have seen several wines, before being bottled unfined, unfiltered and without added sulphites. The combination of altitude, east-facing exposure, old vines and extended natural ageing in old wood produces a wine of uncommon tension and complexity, one that the importer Kermit Lynch described in simple terms as concentrated, racy and salivating — adjectives that prove their worth every vintage. 

The nose opens with white peach, ripe quince, candied citrus and a beautiful saline touch, with an underlying note of dried fruit evoking hazelnut and almond; the palate is ample, almost opulent, but always carried by vibrant freshness — the acidity fine but present, giving the wine beautiful tension, the finish extending on persistent mineral notes and a hint of sweet spice. The oak and reduction are right on point and feel so Burgundian — a style that is rich and opulent yet with superb acidity and freshness, everything in remarkable balance.