Francois Rousset-Martin Chardonnay Terres Blanches 2018

Where La Chaux draws from the storied marl slopes of Château-Chalon, Terres Blanches reveals a different and in some ways more immediately approachable face of François Rousset-Martin's Jura. The vines for this cuvée — 40 to 50 years old — are grown in Nevy-sur-Seille on grey and white marl soils, farmed organically, and vinified in the non-oxidative, topped-up ouillé style that François has pioneered within what is traditionally oxidative territory. If you're curious about Jura wines but don't know where to start, Terres Blanches is the ideal entry point — François has bottled an accessible and delectable Chardonnay that still very much translates its unique terroir, a fossil-laden former ocean; made in the non-oxidative style, there is plenty of room for the fruit to shine through, underpinned by a spine of savoury salinity. Bottled by hand straight from barrel without fining or filtration, as with everything Rousset-Martin makes.

Golden-hued and aromatically complex, notes of chamomile and green apple, lime zest and honey tickle the senses — more immediately expressive and florally lifted than La Chaux, which leans toward richer, more exotic territory. The nose is slightly exotic and savoury, while the palate delivers green apple, mineral notes and appealing florals — with the marl terroir always present as a fine, powdery thread of white mineral precision running through to a clean, salty finish. Lovely complexity with exotic savoury notes of almond skin and a salty finish — benefits from a few minutes of air, opening progressively into something more complex and deeply satisfying. This is one of those wines that quietly converts sceptics into devotees of the Jura one bottle at a time.