Chateau Cantenac Brown 2009

Cantenac Brown is a Third Growth of the 1855 Classification, on stony gravel land in the south of Margaux, in the commune of Cantenac. The estate takes its name from a Scottish-born owner, John Lewis Brown, who built it up in the nineteenth century, and its history is one of steady improvement. A string of critics, including Jane Anson at Decanter, date a consistent step up in quality from about 2014, and technical director José Sanfins has been closely tied to that rise, with the Wine Spectator calling him one of Bordeaux’s least-known highly talented winemakers. In 2019 the château was sold to the French Le Lous family. The grand vin is Cabernet Sauvignon-led, aged 12 to 14 months in French oak, with a high proportion of new barrels in some years (60% in 2018). There is also a second wine, BriO de Cantenac Brown, and a white, AltO.

The result is classic, elegant Margaux with real recent momentum. Black cherry, blackberry and red and black currants are typical, with flowers, espresso, tobacco, cedar and cocoa, and some vintages show bergamot, sandalwood, black tea or truffle with age. The structure is fine-grained and seamless, with a long, silky finish.