Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Bourgogne 2019

Thierry Glantenay is one of the most humble and discreet winemakers in Volnay, and critics who have visited him stress that the modest manner shouldn’t lead anyone to underestimate the wines. The domaine is based on Rue Vaut in the village, where the Glantenay family has made wine for generations, and it is known for its Volnay Premiers Crus, including Caillerets, Brouillards and Clos des Chênes. This Bourgogne comes from three plots just below the Volnay appellation, so it carries the house’s finesse at the most accessible level. In 2022 the fruit was completely destemmed. The label has read Bourgogne Côte d’Or since 2019, so it’s the same wine as the Bourgogne Rouge, and Thierry stopped trimming his vines by tractor in 2020.

The result is a charming, supple red with a fine, pure core of fruit. The 2022 shows plum, cherry and liquorice, with red cherry and wild strawberry, and a medium-bodied palate that is succulent and fine-boned with melting tannins and a powdery, fresh finish.