Churton Pinot Noir 2021

Churton is one of Marlborough's genuine outliers. Sam and Mandy Weaver planted their 22-hectare vineyard in 1997 on an undulating ridge between the Omaka and Waihopai valleys, at about 200 metres, rather than on the flat, fertile valley floor where most of the region's vines are grown for easy mechanisation. Everything is done by hand on low-cut canes at European densities of around 5,000 vines per hectare, and the estate is certified organic and biodynamic. The vines grow on older, denser clay-rich soils, and the Pinot Noir is made across 17 hillside blocks. The wine is wild-fermented in open fermenters with a high proportion of whole berries. Their sons Jack and Ben are now increasingly involved, and the family also makes the lighter, unoaked Natural State Pinot Noir, which won a gold medal at the 2021 New Zealand Organic Wine Awards.

The result is a savoury, structured Pinot with real density. Red and dark fruit flavours show complexity and concentration, and critics have praised its power, richness and cellaring potential. Bob Campbell MW scored the 2013 at 95 points and called it "a highly individual pinot", and James Suckling and Burghound have also written well of recent vintages, with Burghound noting an agreeable texture and a touch of youthful austerity on the finish. Expect fine tannins and a long, mineral finish.