Francois Rousset-Martin Gamay Barbe Fleurie 2021

For this wine, the Jura producer François Rousset-Martin leaves the marls of Château-Chalon for Beaujolais. It is 100% Gamay from a tiny 0.35-hectare parcel in Poncié, one of Fleurie's historic lieux-dits, high up on altered pink granite scattered with blue diorite stones. It is a négoce wine, bought-in fruit that he vinifies himself, and the name is a play on Fleurie. Half the harvest is kept as whole clusters, for lift and length, and the wine is aged in Burgundian pièces and demi-muids. He farms organically, uses little or no added sulphur, and as with all his wines it's bottled unfined and unfiltered. It is labelled Vin de France.

The result is Gamay in its most joyful and lively form. Bright red fruit, redcurrant and cranberry come with floral potpourri, black tea and fine spice over a distinct granite minerality. The palate is supple, slender and juicy, with a fluid, energetic freshness and just enough lip-smacking grip from the stems.