Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Cotes du Jura La Barraque 2018

La Barraque is one of Jean-François and Anne Ganevat's most singular sites — a small plot planted with both old-vine Chardonnay and young-vine Savagnin on a seam of pale, lilac-tinted Lias marl. True to the domaine's "one plot, one cuvée" philosophy, the two varieties are bottled separately rather than blended, giving drinkers a rare chance to taste how the same patch of ground speaks through two very different grapes. Both are handled with the same unhurried care: fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, aged for around two years under a protective, non-oxidative regime (ouillée, topped up regularly), and bottled without fining, filtration, or added sulphur.

The Chardonnay leans dense and generous, with a straw-gold hue and a nose of white fruit, butter, chalk, and toasted brioche, carried by real weight on the palate before a sharp, mineral finish pulls everything back into focus. The Savagnin, by contrast, is more taut and electric — green apple, wildflowers, and flint on the nose, with a bright, almost saline acidity balanced by surprising richness in the mouth.