Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2011

If Les Perrières is the most mineral and knife-sharp of the Sauzet premier crus, Les Referts is its more generous, clay-influenced counterpart — a wine of greater density and textural richness that nonetheless retains the precision and energy that defines everything Benoît Riffault makes. The 0.7 hectare parcel is planted with vines over 35 years old in relatively deep soils interspersed with lots of gravel, and is the fourth largest premier cru holding at the domaine — aged in 33% new oak, a proportion consistent with the other premier crus in the range. Les Referts sits on the lower mid-slope of Puligny, where the clay content in the soil builds flesh and volume into the wine — giving it a character that one experienced taster described as sitting between Puligny and Chassagne in its earthy, herby depth, without ever losing its appellation's essential freshness and line.

A very classy nose with vivid Granny Smith apple, crushed limestone and lemon scents conveying genuine joie-de-vivre; the palate very well balanced with wonderful tension and impressive weight, a touch of orange rind and lime toward the finish with fine persistence on the aftertaste. A little more ripeness and tropical character than the other Sauzet cuvées in certain vintages — pineapple, nectarine and citrus peel — yet with a delineation and mineralité that upholds the sense of Puligny-Montrachet throughout; well balanced and weighty in the mouth, building gradually toward harmonious, subtle spice on the finish. Ripe lemon, apple, toasted hazelnut and vanilla — a richer style of white Burgundy that holds its shape entirely because of the underlying acidity and minerality. Cellar for five to eight years and allow it to reveal the considerable depth beneath its early charm.