Hubert Lignier Charmes-Chambertin 2022

Hubert Lignier is one of the elite addresses of Morey-Saint-Denis, with about 11 hectares certified organic since 2019, now run by Laurent Lignier, the fifth generation. His Charmes-Chambertin comes from a tiny 0.1-hectare parcel in the Mazoyères section, near the Aux Combottes premier cru and not far from the Morey border, with old vines of over 70 years in Mazoyères-Haut, just along the Route des Grands Crus and opposite Latricières. Production is minuscule, often just one or two barrels. It sees partial whole-cluster (20–33% depending on the year) and about 30% new oak, which keeps the focus on soil and delicacy. Laurent says it is less like the fleshy side of Gevrey and more like a Morey-Saint-Denis.

The result is intensely perfumed and silky. Peonies, sweet wild raspberry and black cherry, orange rind, loamy soil, rose petal and spice, with a mineral thread from Mazoyères behind. The palate is full-bodied and layered, with velvety tannins, succulent acidity and a finish that lingers.