Domaine Odoul-Coquard Morey St. Denis Aux Cheseaux 2020

Aux Chézeaux occupies a privileged position within Morey-Saint-Denis — a lieu-dit that sits directly adjacent to the grand cru Charmes-Chambertin on one side and the premier crus on the other, and which Sébastien Odoul regards as the finest village-level parcel in the estate. Aux Chézeaux is next to Charmes-Chambertin — Sébastien's own assessment is that it is his best parcel of village appellation Morey-Saint-Denis. The clay-limestone soils here sit at the mid-slope, where drainage is excellent and the vine roots probe deep into the limestone bedrock, producing a wine of uncommon mineral definition for a village appellation. Aged in a proportion of one-third new oak — more than the Bourgogne but respectfully restrained compared to the premier crus — the wine is bottled without filtration, allowing every nuance of the terroir to reach the glass intact. 

A delightful, ultra-feminine, graceful, lithe and pure wine that builds as the hours roll by — the nose somehow filigree, with scents of violets, smoke, a touch of Chai spice and cola; the palate showing cherry stone, cassis and myrtille framing limestone mineralité, with a very Morey signature background hint of animale. Concentrated but weightless, with dark red fruit, spice, mineralité, purity, elegance and refinement. Fuller but still freshly vibrant, with plenty of structure — but never too much. This is the wine that most clearly explains why the domaine's address matters: Aux Chézeaux tastes of exactly where it comes from, and where it comes from is very good indeed.