Domaine Odoul-Coquard Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuees 2020

Les Fuées is the newer and in many ways the more ambitious of Domaine Odoul-Coquard's two Chambolle premier crus — first produced in 2013 from vines that Sébastien Odoul describes as always carrying a touch more ripeness than Les Baudes, with a completely different shape and character. Where Les Baudes sits directly beneath Bonnes Mares on the Morey side of the appellation, Les Fuées lies at the northern end of Chambolle-Musigny, closer to the village boundary — a premier cru of considerable depth and structure whose 70-year-old vines deliver a wine of real power and persistence. Sébastien notes always a hint more ripeness than the Baudes — half a degree — and about ten years older vines. The élevage follows the house approach of predominantly new oak over 15 months, a framework the old vines absorb with ease.

 A wide, discreetly complex nose — not the forward florals of the Baudes, or at least not the same flowers, with eventually a faint liquorice emerging. In the mouth there is more power and persistence, a totally different shape — like its location, perhaps a mini Bonnes-Mares. Another aromatic beauty — pure, dark, inviting, accented with florals. Wider, cool dark fruit, sinuous muscle. Massive but the balance saved by the direct style of the wine. This is the wine in the Odoul-Coquard Chambolle range that demands the most patience and offers the most in return — deeper, more architectural and more age-worthy than Les Baudes, and one of the most compelling arguments for why Les Fuées deserves closer attention from those who already know and love this small, remarkable estate.