Domaine Hudelot-Baillet Bourgogne 2021

Domaine Hudelot-Baillet is one of Chambolle-Musigny's genuinely underappreciated addresses — a family estate whose vineyards lie entirely within the appellation and whose wines carry the village's signature delicacy from the humblest level to the grand cru. The domaine was created in 1981 by Joël Hudelot and his wife Chantal Baillet, with the reins passed in 2004 to son-in-law Dominique Le Guen, who has steadily elevated quality and been described by illustrious Chambolle neighbours as a vigneron to watch. The Bourgogne Rouge comes from a 1.19 hectare parcel within the village of Chambolle-Musigny itself, with vines averaging 25 to 35 years of age. Dominique destems entirely and is very careful not to over-extract, his focus directed at a pure expression of fruit and fragrance rather than structure or power. The farming has eschewed herbicides since 1989 and follows sustainable principles throughout. 

The result is a Bourgogne Rouge that gives away its postcode immediately — this does not taste like a wine of regional ambition but of Chambolle village character. The light limestone soils of the Chambolle valley give way to wines of silk and lace, with extraordinary delicacy — a quality that runs through the entire range from Bourgogne to Bonnes Mares. Expect lifted red cherry, raspberry and violet on the nose, a fine and supple palate with the gentle grip of well-managed tannins, and a finish that shows more persistence and mineral edge than the appellation usually delivers.