Domaine Dujac Echezeaux 2009

Dujac's Échezeaux is one of the most singular expressions of this grand cru — a wine that consistently reveals a side of Flagey-Échezeaux that its more famous neighbour Grands Échezeaux tends to overshadow. The holding of 0.69 hectares lies in the Champs Traversins lieu-dit, to the west and south-west of the Clos de Vougeot at the mouth of the Combe d'Orveau valley, on a steep slope of 6.5% where the reddish-brown soils are only 40 to 50 centimetres deep over limestone fragments and chert nodules with Premeaux limestone bedrock below. Jeremy Seysses has noted that the wine only began to reveal the silkiness he'd long hoped for after the vineyard's conversion to biodynamic farming, which for this parcel began in 2001. The vinification is classic Dujac — 100% whole-cluster fermentation with indigenous yeasts, a maceration of around two weeks with light punch-downs early and pump-overs toward the end for gentler extraction, then 15 months in French oak with 80 to 100% new barrels — an élevage proportion that sounds aggressive but integrates seamlessly in wines of this density and complexity.

A beautiful vivid ruby-purple in the glass, the nose is deliciously perfumed — a wine very much at ease with itself, gracious on the palate with silky red fruit and refined tannins and excellent persistence. Broad and supple in richer vintages, bursting with smoky plums, wild berries, peonies and orange zest, full-bodied and unctuous with a fleshy but succulent core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins. In more delicate vintages it pivots to red berry fruit laced with briar, tobacco and fine delineation — medium-bodied with svelte tannins and a keen line of acidity, a masterclass in restraint and poise.