Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras 2017

In 2000, Louis-Michel — agricultural engineer and oenologist — took over direct control of what remained and began the work of rebuilding. He started with just 1.5 hectares. He reintroduced horse-drawn ploughing in 2002, converted entirely to biodynamic farming from 2008, and achieved Biodyvin certification by 2012. His philosophy is unambiguous: 95 percent of quality originates in the vineyard. The cellar follows accordingly — minimal intervention, restrained extraction, light oak influence — so that what goes into the bottle is site, vintage, and vine, nothing more.

The domaine now holds around 10.5 hectares across Vosne-Romanée, Nuits-Saint-Georges and Flagey-Échezeaux, producing 15 distinct cuvées — from village Vosne through premiers crus Aux Reignots, Les Chaumes, La Colombière and Clos du Château, up to the grand crus Échézeaux and the crown jewel, La Romanée. La Romanée is the smallest Grand Cru and the smallest AOC in France at just 0.845 hectares, producing approximately 4,000 bottles per year — a monopole that sits directly above Romanée-Conti with a similar soil profile, though with less clay.

In the glass, the style is immediately distinctive. Farming is biodynamic, winemaking touch is light, and even the influence of new barrels disappears into wines of considerable purity, nuance and persistence. Village wines show aromatic florals, red cherry, pepper and a silky, fragrant freshness that already hints at something above their station. The premiers crus — particularly Aux Reignots, widely regarded as approaching grand cru quality — offer sweetly ripe dark cherry, generous concentration, vital freshness and a finely tannic structure with great presence and energy. Everything here is built on elegance first, power second.