Giuseppe Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino 2020

Giuseppe Gorelli is one of those producers whose wine résumé carries more weight than the age of his label would suggest. Born and bred in Montalcino, Giuseppe worked with the grand master of Sangiovese, Giulio Gambelli, at the Consorzio di Brunello di Montalcino for fifteen years before returning to his family's winery Due Portine, then going on to establish the renowned Le Potazzine. In 2017 he struck out on his own, leasing six hectares north of the town centre — the first vintage of his eponymous Brunello being the 2018. His approach is as classical as Montalcino gets: ambient yeasts, long macerations of 30 to 40 days, ageing in Slavonian oak of various sizes from both Garbellotto and Pauscha, bottled unfined and unfiltered. The Brunello comes from the Canalicchio area, a north-eastern zone of the appellation known for producing wines of particular tension and minerality.

A perfumed, poised and delicate Brunello with plush fine tannins, made very much in the Burgundian style — similar to Soldera and Poggio di Sotto, but thankfully without the matching price tag for the moment. Aromas of tilled earth, new leather, blue flower and forest floor mingle with whiffs of cake spice — both elegant and earthy, the smooth palate delivering crushed black cherry, star anise, nutmeg and an earthy truffle note alongside lithe tannins before a minty close. All the markers of great Sangiovese — red cherry, berry, floral and mineral notes — presented with laser-like purity, the palate juicy and complex, driven more by finesse and elegance than power.