Elanto Chardonnay Balnarring 2023

Elanto is one of the most ambitious new vineyard projects Australia has seen in years. Established in 2018 by Elizabeth and Tony Todaro with winemaker Sandro Mosele, formerly of Kooyong, Port Phillip Estate, Scorpo and Rochford, the 10.6-hectare site at Balnarring overlooks Western Port Bay on an elevated, south-east-facing slope. It is planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir only, at an extraordinary 11,111 vines per hectare, roughly four times the regional norm, for a total of 117,777 vines. The vineyard is largely organic and herbicide-free, with yields held to 300–500 grams per vine, and the fruit is handpicked into 10-kilogram baskets. The 2024 is the second release, and Mosele ran a higher proportion of malolactic fermentation (85%, against very little in 2023).

The result is intense and textural. Yellow peach, citrus, nougat, honeycomb and lemon blossom, with buttered crusty bread, croissant and shortbread on the nose. The palate is svelte and creamy, with real power and elegance, a sizeable serve of oak that stays in balance, and a very long finish.